Tararua Ranges
Day 35: Poads Road (Levin) to Te Matawai Hut (16km/7 hours)
Jason and Sharon kindly dropped us off at the track early Monday morning and it was back in to the Tararuas for us.
The info said that this section would take 7 - 8 hours. Optimistically (and perhaps foolishly) we thought we could do it in about 5 hours and then carry on to the next hut this afternoon.
However, this plan was soon put to bed when we realised how tough the first leg was going to be! We had a major climb on our hands. It was a good track (apart from navigating around a massive slip) but a very steady climb (from about 100m ASL to 900m ASL).
Seven hours after starting we reached the Te Matawai hut and quickly decided this was where we should stop for the day. We had a good view of one of the mountains we would be climbing the next day. And then the cloud came in and she was shielded from view for the rest of the day.
Roger found a swallow’s nest just outside (see his notes).
Roger’s notes:
Day 36: Te Matawai Hut to Nichols Hut (at least 17km)
The overnight rain fortunately stopped before we got up but we quickly saw that we would be very soon heading in to the clouds.
That said, we were blessed with some fantastic views up until about 1200m ASL. After that we were walking in cloud with just the occasional sneak peek of a view out to Masterton and beyond.
Lunch stop was at Dracophyllum Hut - a tiny two bunk hut with no room to swing a cat. This is where we had hoped to get to sleep yesterday but now we have seen it we are glad we didn’t!
Very brief view from our hut
Roger’s notes:
Day 37: Nichols Hut to Parawai Lodge (anything between 18 - 28km/13 hours)
OK so this was our longest and toughest day so far!
We woke early (in Nichols Hut) to be greeted by on-and-off rain and low cloud. Disappointed that we would not get the spectacular views promised from the top of Mt Crawford, we decided to still crack on, knowing we might have to turn back at any stage if the wind picked up.
About 1.5 hours later we reached the summit of Mt Crawford (1462m ASL) but the stunning views were very much left to our imagination as we could see…..nothing!
Then it was a long long, long and tricky descent. Did I mention it was long? The whole section should have taken us 5 - 6 hours but it took us 7 in total (most of which was this treacherous downhill with fallen trees to scramble over as well as steep tree-rooted sections. Oh, and don’t forget the rain which just got harder and harder and made everything more slippery).
So it was with a huge sigh of relief that we reached our (rather late) lunch stop at Waitewaewae (YTYY for short) Hut.
We knew we had to carry on so, after a quick break, headed in the next section. Somehow I had convinced myself that this section was going to be easy. But how wrong was I???
More of the same. More fallen trees to climb over, more vines trying to trip us up, another (even bigger) slip to work around and then a whole load of stream crossings. To be honest the whole track after lunch was just…..tedious!
You know it has been a tough day when Roger, well known for taking photos at every opportunity, was heard to say “This would make a good photo but I really can’t be f*****.”, as we crossed a narrow swing bridge!
Then, to add insult to injury, somehow about 1km from our hut we missed a turning and spent the next hour (yes, hour!) looking for the hut.
It was 8:40pm when we finally stumbled in to the Parawai Lodge (a standard DOC hut but with a posh name) for the night after 13 hours of walking. A quick dinner and it was soon time for bed. However sleep was not an option as about a billion mosquitoes had decided to come in to the hut out of the rain. They were very friendly and chatty and just wanted to “chat” and eat all night which kept us all awake. Roger got so fed up with them that he put the tent up on the deck and moved out there! I wish I had joined him as the rest of his night was “mosquito-free” whereas mine was not (and I still have the bites to remind me!)
A day (and night) to remember (but not necessarily as a highlight!!).
Roger’s notes:
Day 38: Parawai Lodge to Waikanae (via Mt Pukeatua) (28km, of which we walked 19km)
What a difference a day makes!!
We left Parawai Lodge early (as per) and headed in to a completely different day in all ways. The weather, the terrain, the views, the mosquitoe-free accommodation….. you get the gist.
And today was extra special as we hit our 1,000km milestone! We are now over 1/3rd of the way of our Te Araroa adventure! A big “high-five” as we hit that point and then a few beers in the evening to celebrate.
As we hit the 1000km milestone.
But back to the track. A lovely ascent up Pukeatua, a good view at the top and then an easy descent and, before we knew it (OK, about six hours or so) we were on a road again and our Tararua leg was over.
An “easy” climb.
View from the top.
In true Twiname-style we hitched the road section in to town. A fellow trail runner picked us up. He was great to talk to but we felt really sorry for his young daughter who was sitting in between us in the back of the Ute as we must have both really smelt! Poor girl was very polite and did not say anything but hopefully she won’t be scarred by the experience.
Once in town it was straight to our motel for showers and washing our clothes before beers and take-away curries! Result!!
A really good day.
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