Glendhu Bay to Queenstown (mostly on the Motatapu track)

Day 75: Fern Burn car park to Highland Creek Hut on the Motatapu Trail (13km/ 5.5hrs)

 

As it was a Saturday, Di and Tim decided they would join us for day one of the Motatapu trail, stay in the hut with us then they would walk out a different way the next day. 

Tim drove us to the Fern Burn car park (which is a couple of kilometers from Glendhu Bay and the official start of the Motatapu trail) and the four of us set of bright and early. 

The morning brought us a bit of cloud which was actually quite good as it meant we did not get too hot. We reached the first hut in about 2.5 hours so stopped there for morning tea. 

There was then a reasonable climb up to Jack Hall’s Saddle (1275m ASL) where we stopped for lunch. As we climbed it was great to look back from where we had come and see gorgeous views of Lake Wanaka. 

A steep descent, a cheeky little climb then more down and we were quickly at Highland Creek hut which was our base for the night. It was only about 2pm so we definitely got there a lot earlier than expected (5.5 hours compared with the 7 hours in the trail notes).  

The four of us read, wrote and chatted in the sun for the afternoon. 

What a lovely day! 

Day 76:  Highland Creek Hut to Roses Hut (11km / 5.25hrs) 

We got up and had breakfast with Tim and Di before saying our farewells and heading our separate ways. They were going “off track” up over Highland Saddle and back to the car whilst we were continuing on the Motatapu track. 

Very quickly we had a short sharp descent from the hut, followed by the first of today’s long steep climbs. It took us about 1.5 hours to climb the first big hill and then another hour to drop down the steep descent the other side. 

This took us in to a short bit of forest but we were soon back in the sun as we zigzagged our way up the second hill! 

The second hill took us about an hour to climb.  As we slowly made our way up I had vivid memories of when we “ran” this track as a two-person team in the Motatapu Ultra. On that occasion it took Roger and me 12.5 hours to run the whole track from start to finish. I remember seeing hikers with their big heavy packs struggling up and down the track and thought “why on earth would they do that?” And now here we are! Doing exactly that! 

I am really pleased we are though as walking it over three days instead of running it in one allows us to stop and really take in the views, as well as enjoying staying at the huts. 

We stopped at the top of the second climb to have lunch. In front of us we could see the valley which we had both ridden up when doing the Motatapu mountain biking event and I had run up when I had done the Motatapu marathon. (As you can see we have been in this neck of the woods a few times before!!) 

After lunch we started to make our way along the ridge line towards Roses Hut. As we looked behind us, every now and then we got some great views of Lake Wanaka in the distance which was magical.  

And then the long, long, steep, steep (did I mention it was long and steep?) drop began in earnest. We could very soon see Roses Hut in the distance and it looked like a hell of a long way away! 

However, it only took about an hour or so and before we knew it we were in the hut, having a cuppa and flicking through magazines which previous occupants had left behind. 

One of these was the latest issue of Wilderness magazine (March 2022) and I was very surprised to see a photo of me walking in the Tararua Forest Park in there on the “Your Trips, Your Pix” page (page 10)! Roger had sent it in about a month ago without telling me! 

This is actually the third time that one of Roger’s photos of me has been published in this particular magazine. Still makes me smile each time!! 

A short but really good day. The Motatapu track and its 360 degree views of big mountain all around us is definitely in my top five faves so far. 

Day 77: Roses Hut to Arrowtown (27.5km / 8.5 hrs) 

They had forecast rain…..and so it delivered! 

We knew we had a long day ahead so we got up at 6am and were out in the rain, on the trail about 7:15am, just as it was getting light. 

True to form for this track we were straight in to another uphill. Sadly the rain and low cloud meant that an hour later, when we reached Roses Saddle (1250m ASL) we could see….nothing! 

Oh well, there was no waiting around for the cloud to clear today as we were wet and cold. So straight in to the first descent of the day. This also took about an hour and then we were making our way along the Arrow River. 

As with the Timaru River, we were basically working our way down the river, crossing from side to side and/or walking down the river as needed. It is very pretty and the water level was low (albeit rising with the rain) but boy oh boy was it cold! Each time we came back out of the river it was a relief for the feet to get out of the cold water! 

About 1.5 hours later we made it to Macetown. We had hoped to shelter in one of the remaining buildings in this historic mining town but sadly they were blocked off and you could only stand in the doorways. At one cottage there were two doors so Roger stood in one doorway boiling up some water for coffee and I stood in the other one making lunch! 

Lunch and coffee over, we knew we had to head back in to the rain for the final push over Big Hill Track to Arrowtown. 

Neither of us had been over Big Hill before so we were both looking forward to seeing a new track. And it did not disappoint! It was a lovely track, especially the descent in to Arrowtown. There was real variety and we both felt it would be good to run down. Fortunately it stopped raining whilst we were on Big Hill track which allowed a few lovely views of Arrowtown as we walked down. Just magical. 

Once in Arrowtown disaster struck! The Arrowtown Bakery was closed! Now for those that don’t know, this bakery does the best pies that either of us have ever tasted!! After every Motatapu event, well, every time we are in Arrowtown, we always get a pie! Very disappointing! 

All was not lost though as the Night and Day store was open and Roger got a pie there (although not quite the same). 

From there we headed to our friends’ house for warm showers and dry clothes. Bliss! 

Another good day, despite the rain and lack of views earlier on.

Day 78: “Zero Day” (0km)

As we are flying back to Auckland for a wedding in a few days time, we knew there was no point starting the next major leg this week so we took a zero day. Arjan and Saskia very kindly lent us a car to drive in to Queenstown where we had a mooch around. It was very quiet and many cafes, galleries and shops were closed. Very sad to see. 

Just in case you were wondering, the picture below has nothing to do with this section but as Roger had more time he was able to catch up on some drawings he has been wanting to do for a while. 

Day 79: Arrowtown to Queenstown (31.5km / 2 hrs 10 minutes by bike)

This stretch is the last bit that we could do before heading back in to the bush for seven days. Rather than walk it, we decided to take Arjan and Saskia up on their kind offer to lend us their bikes as this section, like the Wanaka to Glendhu Bay section, is predominantly along a bike trail. 

It was much easier going than the aforementioned track and still very picturesque. What’s more, when we got to Queenstown, my favourite cafe (Halo) was open! It was closed yesterday so I was really pleased to see it open today.  

We stopped there for lunch then got the bus (yes the buses have bike racks on the front and can take two bikes) back to Arrowtown.  

A lovely cruisy ride and relaxing day. 

Tomorrow (Thursday) we fly back to Auckland for a wedding on Saturday. We will fly back to Queenstown Sunday and be back on the trail Monday.